Wall Heat Loss Calculations. Window Heat Loss Calculations. Door Heat Loss Calculations. Ceiling Heat Loss Calculations. Floor Heat Loss Calculations. Air Leaks. Choosing the Right Size of Pipe. Calculating Pressure Drop.
Sizing the Pump. Heating Your Domestic Hot Water. Plumbing In Your Plate Exchanger. Air Handler Installation Illustration. Unit Heater Installation Diagram. Backup Boiler in Pressurized System Diagram. Flushing Your Plate Exchanger - Diagram. Radiator in a Forced Air Furnace Diagram. Slab Heating - Injection Mixing - Diagram. This outdoor wood boiler installation guide is intended to be exactly what it is, a guide.
Always be certain your installation abides by the local codes and regulations of the governing bodies for your location. In most cases, the best place for the pump is in the weather proof enclosure at the outdoor furnace.
Is your outdoor furnace higher or lower than where you need to send the main supply line to your building? If the bottom of the outdoor furnace is lower than the entry point of the supply line to the building, the pump should always be located in the weather proof enclosure at the outdoor furnace.
If the bottom of the furnace is higher than the entry point of the supply line to the building, then the best place for the pump is most often in the weather proof enclosure at the outdoor furnace. In this case you may also locate the pump in the building being heated if the layout falls within the following criteria. In an open system, you have to be sure to maintain as much pressure as possible on the intake of the circulation pump.
Any piping on the intake side of the pump creates a certain amount of pressure drop. An outdoor furnace has a required minimum flow rate that must be circulating at all times. The hottest fluid, being less dense, rises to the highest point in the water jacket. Without sufficient flow this fluid is heated past the safety limit setting on the furnace and often the high limit switch will cut the power until the temperature has cooled sufficiently. The minimum flow rate ensures that the fluid in the furnace is properly mixed for a relatively even temperature throughout the water jacket.
This allows the controls to sense an accurate fluid temperature and provides the best heat transfer and distribution to the connected buildings. The amount of flow will depend on the model of furnace.
To calculate this use the flowing formula. Typically between 20 and 30 F. Be sure to properly size the piping and pumps to deliver the required minimum flow for the furnace. If the total flow supplying your buildings does not meet the requirements it is necessary to pipe a by-pass loop at the back of the furnace. Essentially this involves installing an additional pump which pulls water from a hot supply connection and returns it directly to a cold return connection.
This pump and pipe must be sized to deliver enough flow to bring the total flow rate of all the circuits up to the minimum flow rate. An example of a by-pass loop is shown below. Automatic and Manual Air Vents are two typical types used. Air is always an enemy in any hydronic heating system, but even more so in an open system. The location of the air eliminators in the heating system is critical in how effective, or hindering, they may be. A properly placed air vent should allow for quick and simple removal of the air upon initial commissioning of the system and for easy inspection or service at a later date.
Typically an air vent is located wherever the fluid in the system flows horizontally and then turns to go down. At that point use a tee in place of an elbow and install the air vent on the top of the tee. Should an air vent ever be installed on the intake side of a pump? If the pump is located at the outdoor furnace then there should be no need for an air vent on the intake of the pump. The piping should be simply routed from the connection at the furnace down or horizontally into the pump.
If the pump is in the building it should be positioned so that, if at all possible, there are no air entrapment points in the piping before the pump. If this cannot be avoided, then an air vent may be installed at the air entrapment point on the intake side of the pump if the location of the vent is at least two feet lower than the water level in the outdoor furnace.
If this vent is opened when the pump is on, it may draw air in through the vent and add to the air problems in your system. When servicing more than one heating load in a system, the order you supply each demand is quite important. When a heating system is designed it is important that this temperature drop be taken into account in order for each component in the system to meet its demand.
The typical order is as follows:. Typical design temperature required is F. Finned copper tube design. A radiator installed in the plenum of a forced air furnace or a fan unit with a radiator built in. A floor heat system that is hung with clips or transfer plates to the underside of a floor, in a wall, or even a ceiling.
In this method the piping radiates its heat through the air surrounding the piping and then into the room through the floor, wall, or ceiling. Aluminum heat transfer plates may also be used in this method to boost the performance in high heat loss areas. A special stainless steel or titanium heat exchanger may be used to heat the pool or hot tub water.
A piping system embedded in a concrete floor such as a basement, garage, or workshop. A floor covered with a topping pour of gyp-crete or concrete would also fall into this category. Typical design temperature required is 80 F. A piping system designed to melt and evaporate snow and ice from outdoor areas such a sidewalks, driveways, or decks.
This piping may be embedded in concrete or hung in staple up fashion depending on the application. Typical design temperature required is 40 F. When designed properly, this enables the maximum amount of heat to be extracted from a minimal amount of flow from the outdoor furnace. Less piping, smaller piping, smaller pumps and lower heat loss. That translates into money saved in both initial set-up and long term operating costs. If we look at the last two items in the Order of Operations list above we see that the water temperature required for slab heating a basement, workshop, or snow melt area is significantly lower than what we generate from our outdoor furnace.
This is where you check your gallons per minute flow rate. Here are all of the parts laid out like they need to be assembled. Put Teflon tape on a small pipe with pipe thread fittings as shown. Make sure you wrap the tape the correct way, as shown. Wrap the opposite way from the way it screws on. Screw another pipe wrapped with Teflon tape too onto the shut-off valve, followed by the 'T' and the Pex fitting.
Be sure to orient the 'T' and shut-off valve so that the shut-off valve handle clears the drain. Screw in the faucet-type valve, using Teflon tape, as always. Now connect the Pex pipe. Simply push the pipe all the way in until it seats. The Pex pipe is shown attached here, and the job is complete! Boiler hookup for baseboard and radiant heat with plate exchanger. Write to Ted at:. There is no other source of warming your home that gives you all the advantages of a timber-fueled system.
With a little extra work, you can reap the benefits. This is an energy source that grows virtually everywhere. Properties are constantly being cleared and the leavings are perfect for your use. Haul it home and you and your family are warm all winter for the cost of a tank of gas. We have years of experience and can advise you on choosing the right equipment for your home. So what are you waiting for? Contact us now! A 10 plate heat exchange is enough for 2 and 3 people.
When you get into a full sized family, anywhere from 4, 5, 6 people in the house; we immediately recommend the 20 plate. It will have plenty of power, and it will have great regenerative nature to it, so it'll heat up the domestic hot water a lot faster.
This is the cold-water side, so cold-water coming in. As you can see, the plate heat exchangers are installed. This is your hot water side. So you're going to mount your plate heat exchanger on the cold water side, and we'll explain to you why.
It's actually quite simple, we call it a thermal pressure siphon. We will explain in detail in a minute. All you're going to do is the water line will come in and you're going to cut it, and then you're going to mount it. You're going to do a 90 here going into the plate exchanger and we always recommend unions.
Now you have to use a lead-free, copper, and or brass union. In this case, we lead-free brass. Ideally, you will be putting a union here, and then you come down in through the plate exchanger, and then, another lead-free union and then back into the into the domestic hot water tank. The plate exchangers can be used for many different applications, anything from cooling or heating and warming up diesel to exchanging heat between polyurethane and a refrigerant. However, the heat exchangers that we have made is created specifically for the wood boiler application.
Essentially, it's a much heavier grade of plate exchanger, which hurts the efficiency a little bit but has the longevity and the quality instead of having to replace it every 4 or 5 years. We went with a heavier grade and they will last you the lifetime of the boiler, if not longer.
In this case, the water flow is going to be coming in from the domestic hot water side this way into it. The flow of the wood boiler is going to go the opposite direction. You're trying to create a cross flow difference which means you will get more heat exchange. The boiler coming in, identified with the red pipe, is going to come in through the bottom, up the flow, and then out and return to the boiler or to your next heating system.
What will happen here is the reason and how this works is the thermal pressure siphon. What happens here is this water coming in from the boiler is anywhere in the ballpark of to degrees. It's heating up the water in this plate exchanger which is coming in at roughly 55 degrees, give or take a couple degrees depending on what zip code you're from. The water in here is getting hotter and hotter and hotter.
It's building up pressure because when water is heated, it expands and of course, being in this pipe, it's building pressure because this tank is also pressurized. That's how it gets water to your tap. The water in here is getting hotter and hotter and the pressure's building. The tank, the water in there is naturally cooling, that's why it's covered with so much insulation. So the pressure in this is dropping. So the pressure between this and the water jacket in here and the water in here, the two pressures are going to neutralize.
When you have that natural neutralization, the water temperature equals out. That's how the thermal pressure siphon works. Once again, the water in here heats up, builds up the pressure, the water in here is slowly but surely cooling. Those two will neutralize at the same PSI or pressure, which is about the same temperature.
You're going to get this tank at about degrees with again, no pump, and no circulation. It's going to use the thermal pressure siphon to do it if it's installed correctly. The most important thing is that you need to make sure you're using a good grade copper on the domestic hot water side or a lead-free brass. You have got to use these grade of metal because this is water that's now entering your domestic hot water system.
Meaning you could possibly be drinking the water, and you'll be bathing in it as well. Please make sure you have good quality brass or copper. Another common question that we get a lot is do you heat the domestic hot water first or do you heat the boiler first or the hot air furnace first? The answer is you're always going to go with the domestic hot water first. The reason why is if you're taking a shower and you get a couple of degrees difference in your shower, you're going to know immediately.
Make sure you go with the domestic hot water first. When you go to your boiler after this, if the temperature of the house is off a degree you won't even notice in the hot air system.
Once you're done with the shower and you're taking a lot of heat from the loop, from the wood boiler or any traditional coal boiler or any other boiler system, it will catch up and get the hot air system. So, the water coming in from the wood boiler, coal furnace, boiler, any kind of boiler system you have with alternative energy or any boiler, you're going to come in and hit the domestic hot water first.
Then from there, you're going to come out to your boiler, your hot air furnace, or any other conventional heating system that you have and then back to your wood, coal, or alternative energy boiler. The nice thing is when they're not being used, the water will just flow right through your plate exchanger into your domestic hot water tank and the tank will work as it was before it was installed. There's nothing more you need to do. The plate exchanger will actually heat up the tank a little bit warmer than the tank is set for.
Ideally the core of the heat exchanger will be entirely within the plenum. Item B. Crimp the sheet metal to the edge of the heat exchanger. This is item G in the diagram above Page Using channel-lock pliers to crimp it, it makes a very nice professional looking installation.
Input lines should be at the bottom inlet unless otherwise marked. This not only forms a virtually airtight seal, but it also supports the heat exchanger as well. A transition was built here so that a larger heat exchanger for the outdoor wood burning furnace, could be used with smaller ductwork.
You need to have two cut-off valves in the return line — one with a drain. With the pump running turn the thermostat up to 90 F so that the pump comes on , simply close the brass valve on the return line quickly, holding it for seconds. Then open the valve. Repeat the procedure at least 4 times.
All of the electrical parts on our outdoor wood burning furnaces are U. Simply call Ted at Best Outdoor Wood Boiler. Toggle navigation. HyproTherm Coal sq. Installing the Heat Exchanger in the Plenum or Ductwork If you have Air Conditioning, the heat exchanger must be installed between the furnace and the evaporator coil.
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